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早餐奶奶的早餐摊
以不变的低廉为匆匆上学的孩子们提供早餐,这一关爱之举,八旬老人毛师花已经坚持了整整23年,而且还在做下去.动力是什么？是中国传统的义卖品德,是她善良、勤劳的秉性.老人开心地说,每次卖早餐的短短两三小时,是最快乐的时光,因为从孩子们的欢笑中,她感受到了自己的价值.
“小小的转角,我们遇到了美好；大大的天地,我们传递着爱与善意.”2017年1月,“最美浙江人”评选活动中,“早餐奶奶”荣获“2016年度浙江骄傲人物”荣誉称号,这是颁奖仪式上给予她的授奖词.
那个转角的温馨场景
“奶奶,我要一个粽子一个馃！”“奶奶,我要两个油饼,一个蛋饼！”“奶奶,我还要一袋豆浆！”……
一大早,在衢州市衢江区黄坛口乡中心小学大门附近的转角,一群小学生正围着一个早餐摊抢买早点.晨雾还没有完全散去,早餐摊笼罩着热气,主人的身影忙忙碌碌——那是一位弓着背、歪着脖子的老奶奶.
早餐摊很小,两张小方桌,七只凳子,四只分别用来蒸发饼、煮粽子、煎油饼、热豆浆的煤炉,另有一张摆放各种食材、调料与碗筷的台桌,还有一辆拉物品的小三轮车.
令人惊讶的是,老人售卖的各品种,每份都只要5毛钱！早餐摊已风雨无阻地摆了23个年头,其售价竟在这么长的时间里始终未涨（茶叶蛋几个月前起卖1元1只）！有人说,这可能是全浙江最便宜的早餐了,此言一点不虚.
一名六年级小学生用两元钱买了四样早点.他端着热腾腾的豆浆,一边喝一边感激地说:“我从二年级开始就在这里吃早餐,因为奶奶的早餐最实惠.如果是在别的早餐摊,一个粽子就要两三块钱.一个月下来可是一笔不小的数哪.”
另一名学生深情地说：“父母每天给我两元钱吃早餐,因为奶奶的蛋饼只要五毛钱一个,我吃两个还能存下一元钱哩.有时忘了带零钱,奶奶总是笑着说,先吃吧,下次来补就行了.”
而在教师祝春霞眼里,为学生提供早餐的这位老奶奶特别慈祥可亲,每天早上看见她,心里就觉得无限温馨,并且已完全融入到自己的生活里.祝春霞说：“哪怕你不会去她那里吃早饭,哪怕你没有与她有太多交流,但只要看见奶奶,心里就感到暖洋洋的.什么叫正能量,我想这就是吧.”
毛磊曾是这所学校的学生,吃过几次毛奶奶的早餐已记不清了.长大后的毛磊参军去了外地,没想到,从部队转业回到家乡,他惊讶地发现毛奶奶依然还在原处卖早餐,依然是老.“看见早餐奶奶,我感到特别亲切.说真的,在我记忆中,没有比奶奶的早餐更可口、更有家乡味了,因为这是家的味道,是奶奶做的味道.”
最爱听“早餐奶奶”的称呼
毛师花老人1933年出生,老家在江山的江郎山下.新中国成立后,没读过书的她独自一人来到衢江畔的黄坛口学裁缝,结婚后随丈夫辗转于全国各大水电站工地,靠给工友们缝缝补补赚取生活费,直到两人年老回到黄坛口.
丈夫去世后,老人独自住在村里.她的子女在衢州市区工作,家庭条件也还不错,都希望母亲与他们住在一起,安享晚年,可老人还想再做点事情.手工裁缝早已衰落,老人就选择摆早餐摊——做早餐投入成本不大,既能发挥蒸煮手艺,更能服务众人.
老人把早餐摊摆在乡中心小学门口,她想,那些忙于学业、上学总是步履匆匆的孩子们最需要一份热乎乎的早点.1993年一个极其普通的日子,老人把一个最简单的早餐摊,摆在了学校门口的一处转角,很快吸引了正在寻找方便而实惠的早餐的孩子们.自己的早餐摊竟这样受欢迎,这是老人不曾预料到的；而这早餐摊摆了23年,而且还在摆下去,这是众人没有预料到的.
事实上,哪怕最简单的早餐,要把它操持好,仍然是件十分辛苦的活.23年来,即便在寒冬,每天凌晨1点钟老人就起床,手脚不停地生起煤炉、煮上粽子,接着磨豆浆、裹米团、拌面糊、做菜馅,最后熬稀粥……一切准备停当已近6点钟.老人把早餐及用具分两次用三轮车运抵那处转角.老人的眼神不太好,往往用一条小狗做向导.
老人坐在那里,眯着眼休息,静等孩子们的到来.她把时间掐算得极准,早起的孩子快来了,必须动手煎蛋饼和糯米粿了！煎好,第一群孩子果然来到！一天最忙碌的售卖时间就此开始.
老人非常喜欢孩子,爱护每一个来她早餐摊的学生.她对所有来买早餐的孩子都叫“mei”.在衢州方言里,“mei”是一种对家中小孩的亲昵称呼.老人说,尽管摆早餐摊确实辛苦,从卖完早点、打扫摊位卫生,到再去市场买各种食材,一圈忙下来,就只剩下几小时的睡觉时间了,却有很多乐趣在其中.“早餐奶奶”,是孩子们对她习惯的称谓.一声亲热的呼唤,能让她疲惫顿消.
贴钱售卖,心甘情愿
毛师花老人售卖早餐是笔亏本生意.制作原料的涨价是不争的事实.现在的怎能与23年前的相比？可老人的早点售价从未涨过.如今有不少人被老人的事迹所感动,常常低价卖货给她,比如12元一斤的猪肉.但再低的进价也无法做出5毛钱一份的粽子、蛋饼、米粿、豆浆、稀饭.“这个前两年8块钱一斤,今年12块了.”老人指着桌上的芝麻馅料告诉笔者.
这么多年来究竟亏本多少,老人从来没有算过,反正她每月1040元养老金基本贴补进去,尤其是在近几年.与老人的早餐摊相邻的一家早餐铺的主人发出切身感叹：“如今的5毛钱能买什么？如果没有倒贴,那就是个神话了！”
老人则认为,自己摆这个早餐摊,从未想赚钱,而是在做善事.“这里的不少学生是从山里来的,家庭经济条件不好,如果我的早点涨价了,有的孩子不肯花钱吃怎么办？吃不饱怎么办？”显然,老人最关心的还是孩子.很多人还知道,不光售价低廉,老人收钱时几乎从来不看收进多少,一些孩子有时给少了她也不在乎,还经常主动减免一些.
23年来,老人已骑坏4辆三轮车,更换过四五十只煤炉.碗,不知已被毛手毛脚的孩子打碎过多少只了,但她从未要孩子们赔偿.她说,她最在乎的,仍是孩子们吃饱后满意的神情、开心的笑声.
子女们早已为母亲建起了一幢4层楼的新房,但老人一直住在房龄已超50年的老屋里,因为老屋靠近学校.老屋有小院,养着鸡鸭,种着蔬菜,还晾满干货.进了屋子,像个大仓库：外间堆着柴火、煤球和桌椅；中间是工作间,放有粮油及各色调料；里间是卧室,摆着大冰柜；虽然拥挤,却收拾得干干净净,一点异味都没有.
子女们劝说母亲颐养天年,但不管用.“去了城里会闲出病的.我这个年纪早就不求什么,能做一件有意思的事情就行.在这里,看见‘mei’,听见‘mei’的读书声,我心里就舒畅.”老人真诚地说.
善举引来众人义举
没法说服母亲歇手,子女们转而以一种支持、帮助的形式,来成全母亲的心愿.
毛师花老人的养老金由儿子叶发领取,于是他利用休息时间,去农贸市场采购主要食材,这样的日子已延续了15年.为了常年帮助母亲,叶发在2008年买了一辆面包车,专门用于拉货,如今换了一辆越野车,但仍兼着货车功能.
两个女儿也不时帮母亲添置碗筷、煤炉等物品.老人的卧室里有只塞满换洗衣服的行李包,那是大女儿叶仙帮衬母亲做事、经常来住几天用的.“可在这里睡一晚,回去要补三天觉,因为母亲的劳动习惯、生活习惯,与我们不太一样.”叶仙每次来到这里,还抽空为母亲按摩身子.小女儿则专门从上海寄来舒展筋骨的贴膏,因为母亲的腰椎间盘突出症已越来越严重.
连70多岁的弟弟毛永森,也来帮助姐姐.他能做的是,买来山柴,一一劈好,让侄子专程从江山老家运来给姑姑用.石磨坏了,也由他专门赶来修复.
老人的事迹越传越广,引来了不少志愿者,黄坛口村37岁的志愿者吴利平就是其中之一.吴利平常在一大早赶到老人家中,帮她把桌子凳子、煤炉碗盘一一搬上三轮车,护送她到小学附近设摊处.“奶奶的事迹太感动人了,没法阻止她摆早餐摊,只能尽我所能帮助她.”吴利平说.
村里的另外一名志愿者方谊也常赶到早餐摊,帮着老人张罗.帮助老人的还有早从这所学校毕业的市民,甚至还有在校的小学生.虽然小学生忙于学业,帮不了老人多少,但递盘洗碗这类举手之劳的小事,已让老人深感暖心.
有那么多人前来帮助,老人的积极性更高了.当有人提出替代老人摆早餐摊时,老人不无幽默地说,我现在还能做得动,我能做到100岁.如果哪一天我趴下了,不能动了,就请你们把这件好事再做下去.
23年如水流逝的岁月,23年源源不息的爱心.一份份简单的早点里,浓缩了老人的仁义和关爱,集聚老人的信念和坚守.我们从这极其平凡的事迹里,可以看到善良,可以看到优良传统,那都出于一颗奉献之心.
（本文照片由衢州市衢江区文明办提供）
Grandma’s Breakfast Stall
By Sun Kan
Grandma Mao Shihua has been selling breakfast to school children for 24 years. Her breakfast stall is at a street corner close to Huangtankou Town Central Primary School, Qujiang District, Quzhou, a key city in southwestern Zhejiang.
Her business is all: two all square tables, seven stools, four ovens, and a all work table topped with food ingredients, seasonings, bowls and chopsticks and a all tricycle which she uses to carry things home after breakfast time is over.
Surprisingly, all the items at her stall were sold at fixed 50 cents in 1993 and they are still 50 cents today except the tea-flored egg, which was raised to 1 yuan in January 2017. It is said jokingly that hers is very probably the cheapest breakfast in Zhejiang. It is probably true.
When she started this breakfast business, she didn’t know it would last and didn’t know she would never raise prices.
She was born in 1933 in a village at the foot of the scenic Jianglang Mountain in Quzhou. She never received any school education. After the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949, she came to Huangtankou to be a seamstress. After she got married, she followed her husband, a hydraulic power station construction worker, to construction sites across the country. She worked as a seamstress at construction sites. She and her husband came back home to Huangtankou after he retired. After her husband passed away, she continued to live in the village. Her adult children asked her to move in with them. She declined. Tailoring, outmoded, was no longer a possible choice. So she decided to be a breakfast provider. It was an ordinary day in 1993 when she set up her simple stall at a street corner at the biggest primary school in Huangtankou.
Though what she sells is nothing fancy, all the backstage chores are time-consuming and exhausting. She gets up at 1 o’clock in the morning and gets to work. She starts the fire in the ovens, puts rice dumplings into the wok and begins to boil them. She grinds and gets soybean milk. She makes rice balls, flour paste, and vegetable stuffing, and prepares congee. When all is done, it is about six in the morning. She needs two trips to carry all the food and equipment to the breakfast site. Her eyesight is not as good as it was years ago. Nowadays she needs a dog to guide her to her destination.
At her breakfast stall, she sits quietly for a while counting time before the first we of kids appears. Then she starts working and gets ready. After the breakfast time is over, she cleans up and buys food ingredients for next morning before she comes home to sleep. What a tight routine for a grandma！
But Mao Shihua loves kids. Her love for kids makes her feel good. Children never hesitate to call her Breakfast Grandma. This endearing name warms her heart. Making children happy makes her life meaningful.
Hers is no longer a business. It loses money. Prices for food ingredients aren’t what they were 24 years ago. Some suppliers are willing to support her and sell her food ingredients including pork at no-profit prices. Still, nearly all her 1,040 yuan monthly pension goes into her breakfast stall so that her business can go on. Over the past 23 years, she has used up 4 tricycles and 40 plus ovens and countless bowls.
She doesn’t want to move to the four-story house her children he built for her. Her 50-year-old house in the village is much closer to the school. And the courtyard is convenient for her business. She keeps a vegetable garden there. Her chickens and ducks roam the courtyard. The house is like a workshop. Though crowded with things she needs to run her breakfast stall, the house is clean and orderly and nothing is elly.
Her son and two daughters help her. Her son has been her buyer of major food ingredients for past 15 years. In 2008, he bought a minivan to transport the stuff for his mother’s breakfast operation. Her two daughters come over at regular times every week to stay with their mom. And her brother, now in his 70s, sends his son to transport firewood, all chopped up to all sizes for her ovens, from her home village to Huangtankou. The niece comes over to fix the stone wheel that grinds soybeans whenever it is out of order.
Many residents at the village volunteer to help, too. All this help makes Mao Shihua’s breakfast operation possible.
Her breakfast fills children with love and her story touches the heart of people. In January 2017, Breakfast Grandma was honored as one of the People of Zhejiang 2016. “She is the beauty, kindness, love, charity at the little street corner,” say the organizers of the People of Zhejiang in a poetic statement.
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